Budapest by Craig Turp

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D Map G2 • I, Országház utca 2 • 356 08 51 • Open noon–4pm & 7pm–11pm Mon–Sat • FFFFF Kisbuda Gyöngye Étterem A unique restaurant where the service can be terrible and the decor so cluttered that you trip on the way to your table, but the food is tremendous and the ambience outrageously ancien regime. Gourmets and foodies love it, as it has a chef who genuinely cares about what he’s serving, while the scatty decor keeps the nouveaux riches away. d Map P1 • III, Kenyeres utca 34 • 368 64 02 • Open noon–midnight Mon–Sat • FFFF Pork chop in a creamy mushroom sauce.

D Map Vörösmarty ZS SZ ÉC HE RA KP AR NY I T DÓ R RE DÜ SI TÓ AJ ÚT SY ÁS DR AN ÚT ÚT SZÍN Y ÚT KEREPESI ÚT ÚT EI IÚ T ZI ÖL £ Keleti pu. UM NÉP JÓZSEF KÖRÚ T Szabadság híd ÓC ÖK FI ÚT K 2 L∏ RÁK TH U KÖR ÁZ ÜL SO ÚT AN ÚT DR ÁS GY SY ÖR ER ET For shopping tips see p107. MH ÖR q Józsefváros RT 1 LL ÉB PA na ) Du ube an (D AK DR VÁ Erzsébetváros Blaha Lujza tér ÚT CZI Ó RÁK 9 q Astoria 5 Gellért BI ZS 70 8 Erzsébet híd U LY ER q Deák tér q Vörösmarty tér GRÁ A collection of fine antique watches and jewellery from one of Hungary’s best known auction houses.

1938) Film director who received an Oscar for his film Mephisto in 1981. László Bíró (1899–1985) Eccentric journalist who invented the world’s first ball-point pen in 1939. Ferenc Puskás (b. 1927) Footballer who led the great Hungarian team of the 1950s (see p96). Miklós Ybl (1814–91) Architect whose work includes the peerless State Opera House (see pp26–7). Mihály Vörösmarty (1800–55) 19th-century poet and author of the epic The Flight of Zalán. Attila József (1905–37) Radical poet who wrote of hope and great beauty.

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